Kevin Cooks: Uyghur Pilaf (羊肉抓饭)
My grandma said my favorite food as a kid was “抓饭”. Given that I left China at the age of 3, I had no recollection of what she meant or what that dish was. It wasn’t until I returned to Xinjiang, China that I realized why it was my “favorite dish”. Today, if anyone ever asks me what my favorite food is, I would say 抓饭 or Uyghur Lamb Pilaf.
To give some context of where this dish came from, I want to give some background about Xinjiang, China and the Uyghur people. My mom’s side of the family is from Xinjiang. They currently reside in the capital city of Urumqi. Outside of the political - and human rights - controversies that gave the words ‘Xinjiang’ and ‘Uyghur’ its spotlight in the news cycle, I think very few people may know about Xinjiang, China and who the ethnic Uyghur people are. I certainly was shocked to see a group of people living in China who did not resemble me at all.
Starting with Xinjiang, it’s a province located on the Western most part of China, bordering Kazakhstan, Russia, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, India, Pakistan, Afghanistan, and Mongolia. Without much evidence, I almost like to think of it as the “Wild West” of China. It is one of the furthest provinces from the capital of Beijing and it houses a portion of the Gobi desert. Modern advances, technology, and infrastructure seem to lag years behind that of Beijing (where my dad’s family resides). I often encountered a bartering system to buy goods in the several open street-side markets and the great Uyghur Bazaars, and without my aunt’s vicious, stubborn bartering skills, I would have been paying double to triple the RMB (China’s currency - also known as colloquially ‘renminbi’ or more formally ‘yuan’) for the souvenirs I thought to bring back to my friends at home. Xinjiang also happens to be one of the most diverse, unique, and beautiful places I had ever visited. Unexpectedly, a province situated in the middle of a desert provides a vast array of cultures and biomes. Within the capital city, there exists an Islamic culture that built several shining, golden mosques and grand outdoor bazars resembling Istanbul alongside large Chinese banquet halls and modern shopping malls. Outside of the confides of the city, nature created a similar diversity, with a scorching, rocky desert, monstrous dunes, endless grasslands, and even snow. Every time I return, I am captivated by Xinjiang’s beauty and uniqueness.
City of Urumqi, capital of Xinjiang
Tian Shan (天山) which translates into “Mountain of Heaven” is a mountain range that stretches through Xinjiang. Here, TianChi (天池) or “Heavenly Lake”, is pictured.
The grasslands of Xinjiang
The Uyghur population is a turkic ethnic group that’s one of the multiple ethnic minorities recognized by these Chinese government. They are predominantly Islamic. They have existed in this region and neighboring regions for centuries, and have been subjected to various rule due to dynasty changes or regional conflicts. Their written language is the Arabic script, and while traveling through Xinjiang, several signs offer both Chinese and Arabic characters (a unique combination I’d never imagine). They make up half if not more of the population in Xinjiang. With their historic presence in the region, the contemporary Xinjiang has been largely shaped by this population. As the Han Chinese and Uyghurs cohabitate this area, there has been a blend of cultures that one can see in the food. Big Plate Chicken or 大盘鸡 is one example of this where a blend of Uyghur spices (mostly cumin) mixes with a bed of Chinese noodles. Although the region is predominately peaceful and both populations have found ways to accept and embrace each others’ cultures, I’ll end this paragraph with recognition that the relationship has not been without its share of atrocities. A tale repeated around the world and throughout history - when two outwardly different populations with different cultures/languages/etc. cohabitate one region - has lead to violent uprisings and oppressive policies. Even despite this, whenever I visit, I see mutual understanding and the benefits of accepting diversity through the day-to-day interactions of the Xinjiang citizens. And, best of all, I get to enjoy their food.
Ingredients
1lb Lamb (has to be lamb! It predominately contributes to this dish’s unique flavor)
6 carrots
1 onion
3 garlic cloves
1 tablespoon of minced ginger
1 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon of sechuan peppercorn (optional)
1 tablespoon of ground chili
1 tablespoon of sugar
2 cups of rice (long-grain is best)
3 cups of water
Directions:
Prepare your vegetable by cubing an onion, julienning your carrots, and chopping up your lamb meat into your desirable size. Mince garlic and ginger
6 Carrots might seem like a lot, but they really shrink during the cooking process.
Heat your cooking oil in a large pot or wok
Add the minced garlic and minced ginger to the large pot until aromatic (not too long - don’t burn it).
Add the lamb and don’t stir it right away. Try to get each side of it browned. This should take 1-3 min per side.
Once the lamb is seared, add your diced onions and julienned carrots. Stir this at medium heat until the onions and carrots begin to sweat.
Add salt and pepper.
Add your 3 cups of water. Bring the whole thing to a boil. During this time add your spices: cumin, sugar, chili powder and Szechuan peppercorn if you have it.
Once it begins boiling, bring it down to a simmer with the lid on. Check your lamb every 30 minutes until it’s fork tender. Usually this step can be between 1-2 hours long, but it’s up to you how patient you are. The shorter time you wait, the more chewy your lamb might be. The more time you wait, it’ll be better braised and tender.
After your lamb is well braised (1-2 hours), wash your rice. Add it to the pot and DO NOT mix it. Just have a layer of it sitting on top and make sure there is enough liquid to cover a thin layer overtop. If there isn’t, add more water.
Let it simmer for another 30 minutes until the rice is fully cooked.
